Shield Arc
Super Member
Farmerford I don't know if it really matters. As long as you have a drain / drains in the after cooler. If you go with horizontal pipe do put them at a slope so the water can drain easier towards the valve / valves!
SA, What is the model number you have? I started looking on line and it appears there are charcoal filters and some just use a roll of toilet paper for the replacement filter.At a minimum I would buy a Motor Guard filter system.
Great question!Is there a simple way to judge if the air supply is dry "enough" for plasma cutting?
Great question!
I am hopefully going to run into Jim at FabTech in Las Vegas in a couple weeks! I am attending for work related purposes but for my selfish interests I am going to stop by the Hypertherm booth and play with what I can! :cool2:Only thing I can think of, is if you go through consumables too fast.
Maybe Jim Colt will see this thread! He has forgotten more about plasmas than any of us will ever know.
In fact I have already installed the cheap HF filter/regulator just off my tank.Believe it or not. Harbor Frgt actually has a decent moisture / oil filter designed for painting. It's really not too bad. I've used all the top selling filters out there and there are really only a couple good ones La-Mon and Motor Guard for starters but this $30 HF set up is worth a look. I painted a 5x10 trailer with a cup sprayer and used the HF system after a friend mentioned it. No fish eyes at all. I had some Thermal Dynamics Filters which are good for small time plasma cutting but they are $120 and they let me down in 20 minutes of painting. I'd vote Moto Guard on the Plasma and the HF $30 Paint filter for painting..