jd 2010 locked rear wheel in cold temps

bluwin · Jan 3, 2014

after starting the tractor in below freezing temps and allowing it to warm up, when a gear is selected and the clutch is released,
the left rear wheel is locked. if rocked back and forth, it will sometimes release. doesn't happen in warm temps. anyone else
experience this? not sure what this transmission is called. it has 8 forward gears and 3 reverse on the single shift lever.

Tx Jim · Jan 3, 2014

Using the crackle test check hyd oil for moisture.

bluwin · Jan 4, 2014

Tx Jim said:
Using the crackle test check hyd oil for moisture.

thanks for your help. could you explain how to do the crackle test?

Tx Jim · Jan 4, 2014

Put some hyd oil in ""your wife's favorite pan"" and CAREFULLY heat over an open flame. If it crackles(makes noise) during heating process oil contains moisture. I was kidding about the wife's pan.

Dizno · Jan 5, 2014

I have the same problem with my 1020. There is moisture in the hydraulic oil in my tractors as the housing had been cracked. One fellow told me this could make the brake liner could also swell up. I am going to change the hydraulic oil a few more times and see if this helps.

jd110 · Jan 5, 2014

On the 2010, the final drives are a separate reservoir from the trans/hydraulic oil. since only the left wheel is affected, it could be moisture in the left final drive or even in the brake assembly. Try removing the drain plug while temp is below freezing. If nothing comes out, it is probably frozen. If final drive is not full of water, then remove the brake assembly and inspect for water.

bluwin · Jan 5, 2014

jd110 said:
On the 2010, the final drives are a separate reservoir from the trans/hydraulic oil. since only the left wheel is affected, it could be moisture in the left final drive or even in the brake assembly. Try removing the drain plug while temp is below freezing. If nothing comes out, it is probably frozen. If final drive is not full of water, then remove the brake assembly and inspect for water.

today the temp is over 40 and the wheel is fine. i did the crackle test on the hydraulic fluid yesterday and it was fine. i will try the drain plug
test on tuesday when it's supposed to be 15 degrees. the outside cover of that brake assembly looks reasonably easy to remove.
will i be able to tell anything if i take that off?

jd110 · Jan 5, 2014

If you remove the brake, look for any sign of water or moisture in the brake assembly. If water is present, the brake actuator plates will be rusty.

bluwin · Jan 6, 2014

jd110 said:
If you remove the brake, look for any sign of water or moisture in the brake assembly. If water is present, the brake actuator plates will be rusty.

There are 2 final drive covers on this model, one on each side of the pto area. each has 2 (inch and an eight)
plugs, one near the bottom of the vertical cover, and the other about half way up. I removed the plugs and
water gushed out. probably two gallons or more. polluted oil followed the water. so I think you guys have
nailed my problem. THANKS. I have a number of questions.
any speculation on how that much water got in the final drive?
is the left side separate from the right?
my IT book doesn't say anything about gear oil for the final drive, I assume it's 90 weight gear oil, and
if so, how much?
This IT manual specifically says under the capacities section, transmission and differential, qts, 32*.
(*includes hydraulic system)
no mention of a separate lube for the final drive. I probably would never have figured this out, thanks again.

jd110 · Jan 7, 2014

Water can get in different ways. condensation can accumulate over a number of years, water can enter through axle seal if run in deep water, gaskets can get bad and allow water entry, or someone could accidently add contaminated oil. Most often, build up of condensation over a period of years is biggest culprit. That is why it is important to change fluids periodically. The final drives do use SAE 90 or 80-90 gear oil. the left and right are separate from each other. I don't remember capacity, but fill them to the upper plug level. probably holds between 1 and 2 gallons per side. There is actually another separate reservoir you should check. The rear pto housing has it's own oil also. It has a small capacity, only around a quart I believe.