First time you hook it on, raise it carefully to check that the top link doesn't hit the front corner of the counterweight.
Bruce
3-PT Concrete Counterweight
- Thread starter Anonymous Poster
- Start date
- Views: 24656
First time you hook it on, raise it carefully to check that the top link doesn't hit the front corner of the counterweight.
Bruce
sdkubota
Platinum Member
I will give it a thourough test run. When down there will be little space between it and drawbar although I could always change drawbar. I'll post a picture once it is mounted to show how it nestles in the back.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
on the ones i cast.. i put riser bars to hold the toplink away from the weight. i seen some guys instead cast in a channel for the toplink.. etc..
sdkubota
Platinum Member
I believe I will have plenty of clearance throughout the full range of the 3ph. Can't wait to mount it and see if I can pop a wheelie!
joshuabardwell
Elite Member
Can you describe in more detail the process used to create the mold? Also, did you just stick the lift pins into the concrete, or is there something more solid holding them in?
sdkubota
Platinum Member
I built the mold based on measurements taken from the 3ph of the tractor while the arms moved throughout their range of motion and allowing some extra space (1"). The forms consisted of 3/4" plywood, lined with plastic, with 2x4s attached endwise on the top and bottoms. The 2x4s were staggered so the side forms sat on top of and below the end forms. Three sheet rock screws through every joint from the same orientation so the forms could be taken apart once the concrete had set. The entire form was placed on a plastic sheet and the bottom was weighted down to prevent any lifting during the pour. There is rebar throughout the block and the center angle iron attachment extended 12" into the concrete with rebar welded that extended to near the bottom (24"). In addition, there were rebar welded perpendicular to those extensions that went sideways into the concrete block. Make sense?
sdkubota
Platinum Member
Oops...actual lift pins were welded into a heavy steel pipe that extends across the concrete block for strength and proper alignment. The center lift pin was also ridgedly held during the placement of concrete to ensure proper alignment.
I believe I will have plenty of clearance throughout the full range of the 3ph. Can't wait to mount it and see if I can pop a wheelie!
Your warranty is now void after saying that.:laughing:
sdkubota
Platinum Member
D'oh!
When Mitsubishi came out with Evo in the US they were going on youtube and streetfire and get peoples tag numbers that were racing or doggin them and sending them letters in the mail that their warranty was void.
crazyal
Super Member
I just filled a 55 gallon drum to make mine but if I ever replace it I thought it would be cool to make a form with the Kubota name stuck to the rear of the form so the cement would form around it and maybe a slow moving vehicle triangle. I also like the idea that others had of adding PVC tubes so that you can put a rake or shovel handle into them to ease transporting.
sdkubota
Platinum Member
I thought about those very things...however, I worked an entire day building forms, cutting rebar, and manufacturing a center hook without the letters. The pvc tubes I think would also be a good idea but I decided to forgo them in order to speed things along. Today it comes out of the garage...pictures to follow!
sdkubota
Platinum Member
It's alive!!!!
sdkubota
Platinum Member
The weight is around 1,000 lbs and puts a pretty good squat on the rears...overall I would say about right. The 3ph is jerky lifting it but I guess so would I if I were in its shoes. Clearances are pretty tight although adequate but may put washers on lower arm hook to keep the arms spread out a little more. The upper arm does come in contact on upper lift range...may notch out concrete but realisticly is higher than bottom of tractor so shouldn't go that high. I will also say the only time I will carry this much weight is when carrying something heavy in FEL or loading dirt otherwise just additional strain on tractor.
One more pic:
One more pic:
Bluegill2
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2012
- Messages
- 1,876
- Location
- Success Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota L3800DT, L3750DT Shuttle
Nice work on the counterweight!
sdkubota
Platinum Member
Looks great but sooner or later you will kink your top link. Better notch the concrete.
I think you are correct...notch coming this weekend!
Notforhire
Veteran Member
Here is my 800# counterweight. I used a 3PH frame from a junk Bush Hog, and welded re-bar to tie everything together. A friend suggested the lift eye. It was a good idea, because I can easly move it without hooking it up, and it lifts level. One thing I wish I done, was to have cast in a draw bar. If I want to use my chain harrow I drop the weight. If I had installed the draw bar I could drag with the weight on.
Bill
Bill
sdkubota
Platinum Member
Nice! Do you find it performs well with your setup?
I can lift mine with the upper arm attachment...I welded numerous pieces of rebar to it below the concrete...it isn't coming out. My weight actually balances on the lower arms as planned but when lifting from the top is not at a balance point.
I can tell by your picture your rear tires could be spread wider by adjusting the rims. Did that to mine and made a world of difference from being tippy.
Last edited:
