Tipping angle 3320 cab W 300cx

[spylake]

I confess I'm a noob and the 3320Cab is my first tractor. I understand that JD can't publish some magic angle that it tips over. Attachments and bucket load and height all have to be figured in.

So help me out here. It feels like I'm going over every time I hit a tree root. Without years of experience I have no idea what is safe and what isn't.

I have a 5 foot King Kutter Bush hog on the 3PT and a 300CX loader.

Can anyone give me some guidance. I took one of these

and filled the bottom half with oil to dampen it. Angels up 10 degrees seem ok. How much further should I push it?

 

[AKfish]

Your question is a good one... Heck, I don't know the answer! No idea... what degree of angle will result in an "unrecoverable roll-over"?

I've never gone to the Safety forum here on TBN and researched the threads and posts regarding roll-over accidents. I've seen ads here on TBN regarding the sale of inclinometers (sp) that show you the angle while you're operating your tractor (like the pic you posted).

But, of course I've never followed up on those items, either.

Along these lines however, is a number of posts here in the Owning/Operating forum concerning the "tippyness" of the 3000 series. Everything from reversing the wheels; wheel weights; fluid in the tires; to wheel hub spacers and multi-position rims.

Depending upon your kinds of use and your property; some of the remedies that other users have adopted might be a solution for you as well.

AKfish

 

[RoyJackson]

AKfish summed it up quite nicely...
I will reiterate one thing he wrote...fill those tires! That cab adds a lot of weight just where you don't want it. Filled tires will counter at least some of that weight. If you can widen the track (by repositioning the hubs to rims or reversing your wheel), do that too.

There isn't any hard and fast rule, unfortunately, when it comes to tippiness. About all you can do is run slowly and get a feel for it. Even an open station tractor would feel tippy initially. Adding that cab makes it worse. Eventually, as you gain more experience, you'll overcome some of that feeling it's going to roll. Just don't ever lose respect for those slopes!!!!!

 

[Jack Squat]

I admit that I thought about getting an angle gauge at first and had the same concerns and wanted something that would warn me... But after some seat time and reading a post that identified a big reality - that being a dip on the low side or a bump on the high side will instantly change you from safe to not safe, nothing is going to keep you from going over (short of training wheels). Going slow when you are approaching the pucker zone is your best bet (this will reduce your momentum if things change quickly) along with being aware of the possible dip or bump...

 

[Rob-D]

There was a guy around here awhile ago selling a tip gauge. I don't know if he's still around andsome have questioned the false security those instruments provide but I bought one and put it on a tractor I have since sold. It gave me a good idea of the slope I was on.

Like others have said, load the tires and put them in the widest position. Go slow ove rough terrain, when you hit a root or stone the tractor has a tendency to bounce up and this may be all it takes to dump you.

Each tractor is unique, learn the specifics of yours, like the cab which raises your center of gravity.

Rob

 

[Johndeere3720]

My dad has a 3720 so i have experience with the tip factor. We run a 6 foot brush hog on the rear wich definatly improves the stability. i also have found that going up/down hills at an angle or strait up and down helps reduce the tippy feeling. We live on a steep hill with a steep driveway. I mow the sides of the driveway by backing the mower over the edge at a diagonal angle and always keep the FEL low to the ground. I have found that having a scoop of gravel in the bucket and the bucket low to the ground lowers your center of gravity which makes it a bit more stable. It has taken me 5 years to figure out the limit on hills and which not to go on. So basically, if it just feels to unstable, dont operate there until you have established a comfort level. Having fluid in the rear tires does help signifigantly but the key is operator smarts over it all.

 

[RoyJackson]

There was a guy around here awhile ago selling a tip gauge. I don't know if he's still around andsome have questioned the false security those instruments provide but I bought one and put it on a tractor I have since sold. It gave me a good idea of the slope I was on.

R&B Manufacturing, one of TBN's long time advertisers, sells tiltmeters.

I had one on my first tractor about 10 or 11 years ago. For me, it was a worthwhile purchase since, not only does it let you know when the going may be getting to a dangerous point, it also shows you that some of those slopes you may fear is actually quite mild (but the seat of the pants feeling says otherwise).
It won't help you in an abrupt transition (gopher hole on the low side, hidden rock on the upside).
And tiltmeters are no substitute for caution and common sense.

I do recomend a tiltmeter, especially to folks new to the CUT world.

 

[hwks1]

Seat of the pants will tell you where the danger zone is! When you start to slide in your seat you have approached a dangerous angle and I would not push it any further.

I would always keep the bucket as low to the ground as possible. Approach angles up and down not laterally. Please be aware of up and down angles - you can tip forward and backward also!

I have never tipped a tractor on its side - but I have seen them tip! I have had a rear wheel off the ground which was a little too exciting for me. Take it easy and slow - keep your loads low. Instinct will guide you.

 

[Rob-D]

Seat of the pants will tell you where the danger zone is! When you start to slide in your seat you have approached a dangerous angle and I would not push it any further.

I would always keep the bucket as low to the ground as possible. Approach angles up and down not laterally. Please be aware of up and down angles - you can tip forward and backward also!

I have never tipped a tractor on its side - but I have seen them tip! I have had a rear wheel off the ground which was a little too exciting for me. Take it easy and slow - keep your loads low. Instinct will guide you.

I lifted a rear wheel too, about 2 feet off the ground! I didn't have enough rear ballast, I put more on right away!

Rob

 

[Nuru]

Wide stance via wide tires and/or loaded tires, heay implements kept low to the ground. Your internal tilt meter is the best, as caution (pucker factor fear :confused2, will tend keep you safe.:thumbsup:

 

[Rob-D]

Wide stance via wide tires and/or loaded tires, heay implements kept low to the ground. Your internal tilt meter is the best, as caution (pucker factor fear :confused2, will tend keep you safe.:thumbsup:

According to Deere the smaller R4 tires are more stable than the big ones.

Rob

 

[MarkV]

As you said there is not a fast rule and things will vary by tractor. New models are tested to 20 degrees on a stationary tilt stand from what we have heard over the years. Most of us become uncomfortable around 15 degrees although some say they mow up to 25 degrees, not me. Loading the rear tires with liquid ballast makes a huge difference. Do a search on the forum and you will find it can be a DIY job.

Welcome to the forum.

MarkV

 

[Rob-D]

I don't think slopes are the problem. Most people get on slopes and their internal tilt meter takes over, I err on the side of caution well beforethe gauge hits 15 to 18 degrees.
It's the rocks bumps, stumps, holes and poor ballast you don't see that flip a tractor.

Go slow unless you know the terrain 100% and ballast it right.

Rob

 

[RoyJackson]

According to Deere the smaller R4 tires are more stable than the big ones.

Rob

Yep, the center of gravity would be lower.

 

[Nuru]

According to Deere the smaller R4 tires are more stable than the big ones.

Rob

Actually, my unit came with the loaded smaller R4's and I switched them to R3 Turf Specials, and the R3s bring my stance in the rear out to 66 - 68" and it is much more stable than the loaded R4's were on the same slopes in my yard.

Deere specs also state that I cannot operate a MMM with the R3 Turf Specials installed but I am doing that too and I have had no issues at all.

 

[Nuru]

Yep, the center of gravity would be lower.

Definitely more stable than the Larger R4s. Mine came with the smaller R4s but they still had me gettin' chicken on my slopes.

 

[Nuru]

Go slow unless you know the terrain 100% and ballast it right.

Rob

Yep, that is the good/golden rule

 

[Rob-D]

Nuru,
This is the email I got from Deere:

"In regards to stability, the smaller tire is going to keep the machine at a lower center of gravity, so that may the correct choice. Also, these are 2-position wheels and it would be helpful to have them installed in the wide position for increased stability."

Thank you,

Kim R.
John Deere Customer Contact Center
USA/Canada

 

[Willl]

Your internal tilt meter is the best

What he said X2.

Cause by the time your 'internal' says you just went to far, looking at the one on the dash will be the last thing on your mind.

 

[Rob-D]

What he said X2.

Cause by the time your 'internal' says you just went to far, looking at the one on the dash will be the last thing on your mind.

I don't know. Like I said, I had one and what would happen is I would look at the meter as I started a slope and checkit while I was moving forward. So you have this give and take action with the meter involved. It's not bad. Also it teaches you as you compare hills and your gut reaction.

Rob